Mode of Morocco

From Marrakesh to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

For several curious reasons, I have always been drawn to Morocco—its deep reds, pinks, yellows and blues, its art and architecture, its fashion and even its smell. Funny thing is, I have yet to actually go there. The truth is that since hippies and artists invaded the country (well, mostly just Marrakesh) in the seventies, Marrakech became a trendy and sought-after travel destination and Moroccan culture, or mutations of it, has saturated our own culture.

An early pioneer to take inspiration from this art hub was none other than fashion’s favorite Parisian: Yves Saint Laurent. Although, he is originally from Algeria, it wasn’t until 1966 that he truly discovered the beauty of his North African roots. Yves Saint Laurent moved to Morocco with his partner Pierre Bergé and the two of them fell in love with the place, making the famously beautiful Majorelle Gardens, which is now a tourist site, their home.

Saint Laurent watched these exotic people closely and reworked traditional Moroccan dress like the kaftan, the jellaba, the jabador, the burnous and the tarbouch into new sleek silhouettes in vibrant colors that became his signature. These were unlike traditional kaftans; they were rare and if Moroccans wore them, they were only seen by husbands and covered by jellabas when the women left their homes. Much of Saint Laurent’s henna patterns and rich embroidery is taken from traditional bridal wear, and is symbolic of warding off evil from the bride.

Soon after Saint Laurent visited, the Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Led Zepplin, Vogue editors, models and, most notably, designer Jean Paul Gaultier flocked to Marrakech and returned to the West with powerful impressions. Gaultier was quickly sending menswear inspired by Moroccan culture down his runways. The rest of the design world quickly followed and by the 80s, Morocco was a clear reference for many artists and creative types— and continues to be one today.

2009 saw a comeback of 70s-style Moroccan trend, with jabellas, turbans and slouchy silhouettes everywhere from Ralph Lauren to Dries Van Noten. In 2010, Sex and the City 2 was released, and was kind of a bust, but more of an inspirations to fashionistas everywhere—with beautiful scenes from Abu Dhabi, which is not quite Morocco, but has a similar artisan luxury and the same Islamic-inspired design themes. In 2011 Stefano Pilati had model Arizona Muse pose in a 30s style villa for YSL’s Spring advertising campaign. Most recently, Jean Paul Gaultier recreated his Moroccan looks from the 80s in his Spring 2012 collection.

So, how can you get in on this trend and what’s the best way to work a Casablanca-inspired look or stylish caftan into your wardrobe? You need a relaxed silhouette: maybe a silky jumpsuit, beaded dress or embroidered scarf. Be sure you have the right colors: dark red, bright blue or yellow. Extravagant gold or turquoise, almost tribal-looking jewelry is a must. If you’re feeling particularly bold, try a turban.